Here I Am

A nicer morning hasn't come my way in a long time. Let's see, where to begin? Well, let's first acknowledge the obvious: I've been awake for 22 hours and 22 minutes. Right now, any bit of functionality left in my system owes to Sam and Lam. Let's also acknowledge something that isn't as obvious. I feel great. I love Viet Nam. I feel great about loving Viet Nam. Moreover, I love research. I've been up all night piecing together a 29-page outline; an ending, as it were, to a month's worth of work.

The last all-nighter I pulled, now that I think about it, was about a month before I left the US. Tucked away beneath stacks, towers of articles I coudln't even see over, adrenaline pumping through my already-sore veins, fingers punching keys like jabs thrown in combination, preparing for the haymaker. I wanted to finish that Tunisia report - and now, I want to finish Chile.

I left the guesthouse around 5:45 and walked around Duong Pham Ngoc Thach for a while before heading over to Diamond for a nice, long, warm shower. I could only conjure up enough words to catalogue my emotions, nothing more, but nothing less. Peering into a gray sky, I imagined a Saigon sky free of pollution, staring back at me through a lens of clarity, not confusion. My effusion cut short, I suddenly encountered a woman selling newspapers and, for the first time, bought a copy of the Viet Nam News (since she didn't have the Saigon Times). Skies still emanating gray, I walked carefully across the street, dodging a couple motorbikes, bemoaning the day when I wouldn't have to dodge motorbikes, and looking forward to buying bread from my favorite street vendor. Maybe it was one of those first customer promotions, but she only charged me 4k for banh mi instead of the market price of 6k. What a way to start the day, eh?

Took the elevator to the 13th floor where I got off to walk on to the fitness center. Grabbed a few towels, keys, etc. and hit the showers. But first, had to take in the view. Diamond provides a simply incomparable perspective on Saigon, one I haven't had the chance to experience at daybreak. The sun rising beyond a tired though burgeoning skyline, like a dragon waking at dawn. Construction sites strewn with latent equipment, waiting to build a city out of this golden haven. I imagined what it would look like. Rays of light caught every angle of the wrap-around glass window tracing the 13th story fitness center, beaming out, touching every crevice, every wonderful morsel of development. I loved it.

Took my shower, crossed the street, and saw my favorite xe om drinking coffee with a friend. He waved and I came over, anxious to enjoy ca phe sua da with a man who's been drinking it much longer than I. His cup was three-quarters full; black - real man. I don't think he took a sip while we were together. Mine was white and sweet, full of caffeine and sugar, two of the greatest ways to overcome an all-nighter. We chatted; I left. Here I am.